Scraping cetol off the decks is fun fun fun
Sunday, September 7, 2008 at 08:13
It's taken me roughly 4 full days, but I managed to scrape all the Cetol (from the previous owner) off our teak decks. I was guzzling water the whole time, and just kept sweating it out as fast as I took it in.
I'm borrowing my friend's multimaster today, to start the process of cutting the caulking out from the decks.
Marine Exchange is open till early afternoon, so I might be able to start the recaulking by this afternoon if I hurry.
I know this isn't the longest blog post in the world, but basically here's the current project scope:
a) Get Cetol off the decks. I'm going to sand a small section and see if I want to do that today instead of pulling caulking. I'm on the fence because the sun will naturally undo the crappy varnish stain that the Cetol left, but I don't want ugly decks for a few years while that happens.
b) Finish sanding the cap rails and use Cetol Natural Teak to finish them. I think. Maybe.
c) Get a new dodger, and start replacing the canvas overall. We're on deck for October for this work. Also, we're getting mounts made for the existing dodger stainless to allow for some solar panels up top. When they (Murphy's canvas) replace the dodger, they remove the frame and rebed everything. Sold work.

d) Pull the chain plates. Probably before I do the caulking on those areas. I've lifted a few of them up and haven't had any bad surprises, but I really need to yank them all.
c) Epoxy this spongy piece of plywood that the water got too. It's right above my head where I sleep, so I can quickly judge the success of this project the next time it rains at night.
I'll hook up more updates as progress continues.
I got the deck sanded last night, and managed to pull one of my teak boards up. I put down some Teak Deck Systems (one part) just to get used to the stuff. Instead of taking back all the caulking everywhere I'm going to go after the problem caulking sections first. The downside is that there will be joins between the new rubber and the old rubber, and those might not be completely water tight. But, that's still a hell of a lot better than the huge cracks I currently have. Better to have a couple pin holes here and there than the monster sized 5' cracks I've got on the starboard.
The multimaster was great. There's still a lot of manual stuff you need to do as well though; the multimaster takes care of maybe 60%-70% of the work. The sides still need to be sanded and hit with acetone to dry out the teak oil and make the compound stick.
And yes, it is the absolute dirtiest crap in the universe. *Everything* needs to be taped off.
Eric |
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